Yes, there are roadblocks, one-lane roads, road work signs, and a temporary speed limit of 30km/hr at many places. And the normal journey time of two hours between Christchurch and Kaikoura may stretch to just under three hours. But the awe-inspiring scenery of the Kaikoura ranges and the wildlife encounters including with dolphins, whales, and seals are all still there.
And the most heartening news of all, the Ohau Point Seal Colony off SH1, just 27km north of Kaikoura—though not accessible to public as yet and the number one attraction in TripAdvisor's list of things to do in Kaikoura—has remarkably escaped any earthquake damage.
“We all got very worried on November 14 about the fate of the seal colony. But reports indicate all is fine. New Zealand Transport Agency has been using helicopters to sluice the slip at the Ohau Point since last month to make the area accessible again,” Mr Mike, a local resident, noted.
Notably, Transport Minister Simon Bridges has recently assured the town that restoring access to State Highway 1 north from Kaikoura is a priority for the government and it will be done before next Christmas.
The SH1's section south of Kaikoura was reopened for use during daytime hours (between 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.) just before Christmas after NZTA cleared several slips and large boulders that fell across because of November 14's earthquake.
Back in town, excavation works are continuing in town's South Bay, from where Whale Watch boats operate. Since it is the main tourist attraction and a major revenue earner for the town, restoring the harbour is everyone's top priority to get the community up and running again.
Meanwhile, the Kaikoura District Council, in the spirit of participatory democracy, has sent out questionnaires to all households asking people to list six main things they would like to change, improve, or get new.
“Recovery isn’t a short term fix. This is about long-term strategies, and it’s really important that the economic plan we implement is reflective of what residents want to see,” Winston Gray, Kaikoura's Mayor, said. The feedback collected will be categorised into themes and presented back to the community for further consultation in February.
Although accessibility has improved and there isn’t any visible damage—apart for some disruption in utilities—the touristic town seems to be having one of its quietest summers ever, at least in recent memory.
The wharf and waterfront, normally bustling with life at this time of the year, are deserted. Motel owners and holiday park managers have reported only 30–35% occupancy rates and are gearing up to house an anticipated influx of new clientèle— earthquake recovery workers and insurance assessors.
“That seems our only hope of salvaging anything from this season. Surprisingly, though, a lot many people actually came down to Kaikoura from Christchurch during the New Year period to support the town in its hour of need. I guess this is what the famed Kiwi spirit is all about,” Mr Mike added.